![]() I think Katie really just got by on the crumbs,” Saveliev suggested.Įven as her collections garnered notice, Gallagher’s practice remained largely DIY. You get little crumbs here and there and they feel really great. “The thing about fashion is it gives you piecemeal ideas of feeling really good and really important like you’re totally broke, but then you end up being invited to Cannes, or whatever. I think that what it came down to is, ‘Wow, if I work hard enough, I can actually create this little world.’ ” But, of course, the industry’s obsession with newness and change, means that its ecosystem is always in flux, as new “planets” push others out of the way. “The world was not yet fully digital,” noted Saveliev, and “a huge part of the collective story is that people still really wanted to make cool stuff. It was not for everyone, but if it was for you it was heavenly.” It was most important to her for her fantasy to live in a reality of her making. Katie was not concerned with trends, commerce, or seemingly, critique. Sweet Saba designer Maayan Zilberman came up at the same time as Gallagher, and though they had different aesthetics, she recalled, “we shared a common bond-the belief in a singular vision, the pursuit of creating a visual world that is unique and lyrical-cinematic too. There’s really something awesome when you can create and just see it come out in the world.” “I think that that’s what downtown New York was about, people that didn’t have a lot of means, and a few people that did, and everybody working together to be responsible for something cool. Neither of us had any financial backing, I’m from communist Russia, she’s from rural Pennsylvania this was definitely a labor of love and also just extreme obsession,” Saveliev said. “It was always a high stakes, high stress thing. It was at a time when it seemed possible to build something from the ground up. Having attracted the attention of the stylist Nicola Formichetti and the fashion collector Daphne Guinness while she was still at school, Gallagher established a base in Chinatown in 2009 and immediately hit the show circuit. When I was young, I hated wearing clothes, but I always wore my cat Thomas on my head.” Painting was Gallagher’s first love-”I don’t believe that fashion is the end goal,” she once said-and what it seemed she really wanted to do was create, and share, her personal universe. Gallagher hinted at this herself in her Web bio, where she wrote, “I live in New York City, but I was born between a farm and a forest somewhere in the United States.
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